Serums have long been a hot beauty topic - why?

Cosmydor’s three serums - more coming soon!

Serums have recently been acknowledged by Net-A-Porter (see article in The Industry.Beauty here) as their bestselling category over the last decade. Cosmydor can confirm it is seeing the same trend at the brand level, since its first serum launched three years ago.

Definition of serums in skincare

Serums are usually emulsions containing a high concentration of active ingredients such as vitamins, antioxidants, peptides, and hyaluronic acid. They are designed to penetrate deeper into the skin and deliver active ingredients directly to the cells to provide targeted treatment and visible results.

They are particularly beneficial for people with specific skin concerns, such as wrinkles and fine lines, hyperpigmentation, acne, dark spots, lack of glow, or dark circles below the eyes.

Active ingredients may be from petrochemicals or from natural origins, with the latter being Cosmydor's choice.

There is a debate related to the hydration purpose of serums. At Cosmydor, they have decided that as hydration and moisturisation are extremely powerful in all creams, milks, and balms formulations, serums would focus on specific skin issues or conditions instead. So, if the condition you are willing to correct is dehydration, we recommend creams, milks, and balms, and not the more specific serums.

How to use serums?

If you were experiencing a specific condition and found an efficient serum able to tackle it, you may not need it anymore as part of your daily routine.

Typically, anti-wrinkle serums tend to become part of a daily routine, as there is a continuous need to tense the skin, help cells regenerate, etc.

A small quantity is required, just a few drops, as the use is meant to be localized. Then it is recommended to wait for full absorption by the skin and to follow up with a hydrating face cream.

Why are serums such a hot topic in beauty?

Because they are at the heart of the first absolute priority of skincare: efficacy. They are meant to make a difference for a targeted issue or skin condition.

Serums are a critical step in any beauty routine, from the simple ones popular in Southern Europe to the 10 steps used in South Korea.

Academic research on serums has been very active and conclusive, including for instance:

• Anti-aging: in a randomised, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trial, researchers found that a serum containing a combination of retinol, vitamin C, and peptides significantly improved the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and skin texture after 12 weeks of use (Ganceviciene et al., 2012).

• Hyperpigmentation: a study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology found that a serum containing a combination of vitamin C and niacinamide effectively reduced the appearance of hyperpigmentation and improved overall skin tone after 12 weeks of use (Wang et al., 2019).

• Acne: in a randomised, controlled study, researchers found that a serum containing salicylic acid and niacinamide significantly reduced acne lesions and improved overall skin appearance after 8 weeks of use (Draelos et al., 2019).

Is Cosmydor’s artisanal know-how relevant to create serums?

Indeed, Cosmydor's cosmetic know-how is entirely about efficacy - in a completely natural way, of course. So, serums are the ideal products to showcase the difference products containing ultra-high concentrations of active ingredients, themselves chosen and extracted for optimal efficiency, and manufactured gently to respect their benefits, can make.

Cosmydor’s three serums, part of the Intense Skincare Range:

• In-Tense Serum with Italian and Malagasy Helichryses, Cosmydor’s best-seller anti-ageing serum
  The first active ingredient of the In-Tense Serum, Italian helichryse, otherwise known as everlasting, is recognized as one of the plants with the most exceptional anti-ageing power.
  Evening primrose, the second key ingredient, has powerful virtues of regeneration - it is also nicknamed “the king's panacea”: this herb has a very ancient reputation for curing almost anything.
  Caffeine also provides a powerful tightening effect much sought after.
  Finally, the high concentration of Madagasy helichryse, hyaluronic acid, aloe vera, lemongrass, and rose muscat combine to bring more anti-inflammatory, regenerating and hydrating effects to the formula - contributing to the amazing skin tightening and anti-ageing effects brought about by this serum.

• Eye Contour Serum with Hamamelis
  This eye contour serum contains exceptional active components in high concentrations, including shea butter and glycerin specifically for hydration.
  The core ingredient, hamamelis, brings its astringent and revitalising virtues, as well as its soothing and moisturising properties, necessary for the specific care of the eye contour. It is reinforced by caffeine, known for its powerful tightening effects, highly effective for this part of the face which is subject to swelling or black circles.

• Unifying Serum with Coffee Bean Powder
  The unifying serum provides its tightening and unifying effects thanks to coffee bean powder and caffeine, both highly potent ingredients. Extracts of peach leaves, apples and raspberries are added to fight against the ageing process and to help illuminate the skin and unify the complexion.
  Its extraordinary efficacy derives from its ability to partially erase the differences between the small brown spots that appear naturally on the skin of the face with age, and under the influence of exposure to the sun.
  The high concentration of ingredients known to provide the skin with a brighter tone gives an incomparable glow to the face.
  Please note the unusually low concentration in active ingredients for a Cosmydor skincare product comes from the presence of coffee and caffeine as key ingredients in the formula. These ingredients are so strong and powerful that their concentration must be limited. Despite a concentration close to 10%, the benefits correspond to a concentration in natural ingredients between 35% and 97%, similar to Cosmydor’s other serums, creams or balms.

Conclusion

Serums showcase a skincare brand’s know-how: are their formulas really making a difference?

As usual, the best way to assess any skincare product’s efficacy is to start by looking at the label. Then try to understand what makes it work - if you do not have your own methodology, Cosmydor has developed its own (see article here).

Ultimately, the proof of a serum's efficacy will be in the results you see on your own skin after using it for a few weeks. Otherwise, time to switch!